Horse Clips: Which is the right one for your Horse?

As autumn arrives and horses begin growing their winter coats, many owners start asking the same question: should I clip my horse, and if so, which type of clip should I choose?

After more than 30 years of owning and competing horses, I have seen fashions in clipping come and go, but the basic principle hasn't changed. A clip should suit the individual horse, their workload and the way they are managed — not simply what everyone else on the yard happens to be doing.

Some horses benefit enormously from clipping. Others may need only a small amount of coat removed, while horses doing little work may be perfectly comfortable keeping their natural winter coat.

Here is a practical guide to the different types of horse clip and how to decide which might be most suitable for your horse.

Why Do We Clip Horses in Winter?

A horse's winter coat provides natural insulation and protection against colder weather.

The difficulty comes when a horse with a thick winter coat is exercised regularly. They may sweat heavily and then take a long time to dry afterwards.

Clipping removes some or all of that heavier coat so that a working horse can exercise more comfortably and dry more quickly afterwards.

It can also make grooming easier, particularly during a wet and muddy British winter.

That doesn't mean every horse needs clipping.

A horse doing light work without becoming particularly sweaty may be better keeping most or all of their natural coat.

The amount of hair you remove should reflect how much work your horse is doing, where they tend to sweat and how they are managed when they aren't being ridden.

When Should You Clip a Horse?

Many horses begin developing their winter coat as the days shorten during autumn, and owners often carry out the first clip around September or October.

There isn't a single date when every horse should be clipped.

Breed, coat growth, workload and management all make a difference. Some horses may only need clipping once, while horses in regular work may need clipping again as their coat grows back.

Traditionally, many owners avoided clipping later in the season because of concerns about interfering with the summer coat. In practice, the timing of the final clip should be considered according to the individual horse, their coat and their management.

Does Your Horse Actually Need Clipping?

Before deciding which clip to choose, first ask whether your horse needs clipping at all.

Think about what happens after exercise.

Does your horse become very sweaty?

Does their coat take a long time to dry?

Are you regularly waiting for them to cool and dry before you can comfortably turn them out or leave the yard?

If the answer is yes, removing some coat may make winter exercise and aftercare considerably easier.

If your horse barely sweats during their normal workload, however, there may be little reason to remove the natural protection their winter coat provides.

Bib Clip

A bib clip is one of the smallest and simplest clips.

Hair is usually removed from the underside of the neck and chest, sometimes extending slightly further underneath the horse.

This can be useful for horses in very light work that become sweaty around the neck and chest but don't need large areas of coat removed.

Because most of the winter coat remains, the horse retains much of their natural insulation.

A bib clip can be a good starting point if you're unsure how much coat your horse actually needs removed.

Irish Clip

The Irish clip removes more hair than a basic bib clip but still leaves a substantial amount of the winter coat intact.

Hair is generally removed from the areas around the lower neck, chest and underside where the horse is more likely to sweat during exercise.

It is a useful option for horses doing light work and can also suit horses that spend plenty of time turned out.

One advantage is that you aren't removing coat unnecessarily from areas where the horse doesn't tend to become particularly hot.

Trace Clip

The trace clip is a traditional and very useful option for horses in light to moderate work.

Hair is removed from the underside of the neck, chest and belly, extending along the horse's sides. The exact height of the clipping line can be adjusted depending on how much the horse works and where they sweat.

You'll sometimes hear people refer to a low or high trace clip.

A low trace leaves considerably more coat on the horse, while a higher trace removes more.

The legs are normally left unclipped.

For many leisure horses working throughout winter, a trace clip provides a good compromise between removing enough coat to make exercise more comfortable and retaining plenty of natural protection.

Chaser Clip

A chaser clip removes more coat than a typical trace clip while leaving hair over the horse's back and quarters.

It can be useful for horses doing a moderate amount of work, particularly those that still spend significant time turned out.

Leaving coat over the back helps retain some natural protection while removing hair from areas more likely to become sweaty during exercise.

As with a trace clip, the precise clipping line can be adapted to suit the individual horse.

Blanket Clip

With a blanket clip, most of the coat is removed from the neck and body while an area over the back and quarters is left unclipped, rather like the shape of an exercise sheet or blanket.

The legs are generally left with their natural coat.

This type of clip can suit horses in regular or medium work that need more hair removed but still benefit from retaining some natural protection over the back and quarters.

It can also be useful for horses that continue to have regular turnout during winter.

Hunter Clip

A hunter clip removes most of the horse's winter coat while traditionally leaving the legs and a saddle-shaped patch of hair on the back.

As the name suggests, it has long been associated with horses doing demanding winter work such as hunting.

Because so much natural coat is removed, a horse with a hunter clip will generally require considerably more thought about rugging and protection from the weather than one with a smaller clip.

This isn't normally necessary for a horse doing occasional light hacking or schooling.

Full Clip

A full clip removes the horse's winter coat very extensively, including the body and usually the legs, with the precise treatment of the head varying according to the horse and owner's preference.

It is most appropriate for horses in hard, regular work where sweating would otherwise be difficult to manage.

Removing this much coat also removes a large proportion of the horse's natural protection against cold and wet weather.

A full clip therefore brings additional responsibility for appropriate rugging, management and monitoring.

For many leisure horses, it is simply more clip than they need.

Which Horse Clip Should You Choose?

Rather than choosing a clip because you like how it looks, start with your horse's workload.

As a rough guide:

Very light work — no clip or bib clip

Light work — bib, Irish or low trace clip

Light to moderate work — trace clip

Moderate work — higher trace, chaser or blanket clip

Hard regular work — hunter or full clip

These aren't rigid rules.

You also need to consider whether your horse lives in or out, their breed and coat type, age, body condition, access to shelter and how well they cope with colder weather.

The best clip is usually the one that removes enough hair to solve the sweating problem without removing substantially more natural protection than necessary.

How Should You Rug a Clipped Horse?

Clipping and rugging naturally go together, but it's important not to assume that every clipped horse automatically needs a heavyweight rug.

How much protection a horse needs depends partly on how much coat has been removed.

A horse with a small bib or trace clip still has considerably more natural insulation than a fully clipped horse.

Weather conditions matter too. Rain, wind, temperature, shelter, body condition, breed and whether the horse is stabled or turned out should all influence your decision.

Check underneath rugs regularly. Your horse should feel comfortably warm and dry rather than sweaty or excessively hot.

Over-rugging can be just as undesirable as failing to provide enough protection.

For more information about managing horses through the colder months, see our guide to Preparing Your Horse for Winter in the UK.

Preparing Your Horse for Clipping

A clean, dry coat makes clipping considerably easier.

Dirt and grease can make it harder for the blades to move smoothly through the coat, so make sure your horse is well groomed before you begin.

Check that your clippers are working correctly and that the blades are clean and sharp.

Choose a well-lit, uncluttered area with secure footing and enough room to work safely around the horse.

If you're using corded clippers, pay particular attention to the position of the cable and use appropriate electrical safety equipment.

Clipper blades can become hot during use, so stop regularly to check them, remove hair and apply clipper oil as required.

Never continue clipping with blades that have become uncomfortably hot.

What If Your Horse Is Nervous About Being Clipped?

Some horses aren't bothered by clippers at all. Others find the noise, vibration or sensation worrying.

If your horse is nervous, don't wait until you desperately need to complete a full clip before introducing them to the clippers.

Give them time to become comfortable with the process.

You might begin with the clippers running some distance away and gradually bring them closer over several sessions. Only progress when your horse is comfortable at the previous stage.

The aim shouldn't be to force the horse to tolerate clipping. It should be to help them learn that the sound and sensation aren't something they need to fear.

For particularly anxious horses, seek experienced professional help. If sedation is being considered, speak to your veterinary surgeon.

Should You Clip a Horse's Head and Legs?

You don't automatically need to clip the head or legs simply because you've clipped the body.

Whether these areas are clipped will depend on the type of clip, the horse's work, management and how comfortable they are with being clipped.

Heads can be particularly sensitive, and some horses strongly dislike clippers around their ears and face.

Legs also provide natural protection from the elements.

For many horses, particularly those spending substantial time turned out, leaving the legs unclipped is entirely sensible.

Caring for Your Horse After Clipping

Once you've finished, brush away loose hair and check your horse's skin for any signs of irritation.

You may find that your horse feels the cold more quickly immediately after having a significant amount of coat removed, so reassess their rugging rather than simply returning them to exactly the same routine.

Continue checking them regularly over the following days.

A horse's requirements can also change as winter progresses, temperatures fluctuate and their workload changes.

Clipping, Wet Weather and Winter Skin Problems

Winter brings another challenge: mud.

Although clipping can make some areas easier to keep clean, constantly wet and muddy conditions can contribute to skin problems, particularly on the lower legs.

If your horse is turned out regularly through winter, check their legs routinely for soreness, swelling, scabs or broken skin.

We've covered this separately in our guide to Mud Fever in Horses, including the signs to look for and ways to reduce the risk.

Common Horse Clipping Mistakes

One of the biggest mistakes is removing far more coat than the horse's workload actually requires.

Other common problems include clipping a dirty or damp horse, using blunt or overheating blades, rushing a nervous horse and failing to adjust rugs afterwards.

And don't worry too much if your first clipping lines aren't perfectly straight.

A technically beautiful clip is far less important than having a horse that is comfortable, appropriately managed and not frightened by the experience.

Frequently Asked Questions About Horse Clipping

What is the best clip for a horse in light work?

A bib, Irish or trace clip can work well for horses in light work, depending on how much they sweat and where. The aim is to remove hair from the areas that become hot and sweaty while retaining as much useful winter coat as possible.

Does every horse need clipping in winter?

No. Horses that aren't working hard enough to become excessively sweaty may have no need to be clipped. Their natural winter coat provides valuable insulation.

When should I first clip my horse?

Many owners first clip during autumn when the winter coat begins to make exercise and drying off more difficult. The right time depends on the individual horse's coat growth, workload and management.

How many times should you clip a horse during winter?

Some horses only need one clip, while others in regular work may be clipped several times as the coat grows back. There is no set number that applies to every horse.

Does a clipped horse always need a rug?

Not necessarily. It depends on how much coat has been removed and the individual horse, weather, shelter, body condition and management. A horse with a small bib or trace clip may have very different requirements from a fully clipped horse.

Which clip is best for a horse that lives out?

If a horse lives out and only does light or moderate work, retaining more of the natural coat with a bib, Irish or trace-style clip may be appropriate. The decision should also take account of shelter, weather, body condition and the individual horse.

Choose the Clip for the Horse in Front of You

There isn't one perfect clip for every horse.

A native pony hacking a few times each week has very different requirements from a competition horse in hard work, and their clips should reflect that.

Start with the practical problem you're trying to solve.

If your horse is sweating heavily during exercise and taking a long time to dry, consider where they sweat and how much coat genuinely needs removing.

Then think about turnout, shelter, rugging and the amount of work they'll realistically be doing throughout winter.

The best winter clip isn't necessarily the smartest or most dramatic one.

It's the one that keeps your horse comfortable while making their winter workload easier to manage.

"This article represents the personal views and opinions of the author and should not be taken as representative of the official policy or position of any organization, professional, expert, or individual."